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Sicilia
Sicily, island of contrasts
The most imposing sight on Sicily is, according to many, the Etna, the volcano dominating the city of Catania, notorious for spewing out fearsome streams of lava in a magnificent eruption, but when quiet, being a silent majesty, sometimes allowing its top to be covered with snow.
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Sicily is an island where “the landscape does not know the happy medium between exuberance and modesty”, at least, according to Prince Don Abruzzi of Salina, a character from Tomasi di Lampedusa’s novel “ Il Gattopardo” (the Leopard), with many autobiographic details and based on his own but mostly his grandfather’s life. The novel was very controversial at the time, and for quite a many of years it could not be bought in Italy. In 1963, Luchino Visconti made a world-famous movie from the book, starring then great actors such as Burt Lancaster, Alain Delon and Claudia Cardinale.
Exuberance seems to be a perfect word to use when describing Sicily, because everything is in exuberance: the blinding sunlight, the intense blue of the surrounding seas, the sun-bleached red of the roofing tiles, the whiter-than-white of the saltpans and the luscious green of the gardens.
The sight of so many overwhelming contrasts touches everybody. Princely and exotic, fascinating and mysterious, richly endowed with art treasures and imposing sites of many ages ago. Sicily offers an enormous range of it all to all visitors. Only the prejudiced shout “Mafia” or think there is only that volcano.
Palermo, city for strangers and city of church goers
When the Normans came to Sicily, they found a city then called Al Kalisaq. During the course of the ages, the name has become “Palermo”. A city of magic, for both inhabitants and tourists alike. Of course, we have to agree, the modern parts of the city are nothing to write home about but then, no city of this size is only pure delight. The historic hart of Palermo, surrounded from three sides by buildings and the sea from the fourth side, still is of undiminished beauty. One can clearly distinguish the Medieval lay-out of the narrow, windy alleys, whilst having to admire the ingenuity of the architects of these days in order to overcome the differences in height. The largest church square is enormous, smack in the middle of the city’s heart. The four, straight main streets running from there divide the city into four parts, and everywhere one will find back much of all the different civilisations once ruling over Palermo: Greek, Roman, Byzantine, Arab, Norman, the Spanish royal house of Aragon, the French royal house of Anjou…
In all villages and smaller towns on the island one breathes the past, enriched by the sun, the sea and the fierce passions of all Sicilians. Religion plays an important part in the heart of the Sicilians, as embodied, for instance, in “Monreale”, an ancient city at about 8 km. from Palermo, the “city of gold”, with an absolutely splendid cathedral in Norman style which, at the time it was finished around 1174, was the biggest in the then known world. Lovely Medieval mosaics, Rococo chapel, cloister…One of the most beautiful examples of Sicilian art.
Special wine and old ships
Why does the name “Marsala” ring a bell for so many of us? The city played an important role in the Italian unification, but the production of special wines is a much more probable guess.
The vines grown here are unique for the regions around Palermo and Trapani and it is stipulated by law that the wine derived from these vines has to ripen for at least four years in order to answer to the strict specifications. So understandably, the Marsala wines are not meant for supermarket low budget prices. This very classy product should be savoured in leisure. The very special smell of these wines, sweet and to some a bit sickening because of the particular fermentation processes, enters your nostrils and lingers there when you come near to the places of production.
The archaeological museum in the Baglio of Anselmi is very interesting. You will find, a.o., the remnants of a Punic ship, ten metres long and three metres wide, dating from the 3rd century B.C., taken from its watery grave close to Capo San Teodoro in 1970.
Climbing and skiing on the slopes of a volcano
The Etna is one of the most important, active volcanos in the world. The enormous crater of this volcano, with slopes leading down to the sea, can spit out lava and, once the dangers for men and beast have become past tense again, the soil has become very fertile, resulting in not only dense woodlands with chestnuts, oaks and firs, but also rich, cultivated lands with orange- and lemon trees, other fruit trees and, of course, vines. The physically very fit will love to track around the crater, and those who want to take it a bit easier can enjoy a railway trip, albeit on a lower level, and see about as much with hardly any effort. But a trip by car can be just as fascinating. You have more than enough to see and enjoy. A kind of lifeless moon landscape above you, whilst you drive along an oasis of flora (and fauna!).
When leaving the picturesque Nicolosi behind you, you will continue to see breathtakingly beautiful sights of evolution. Do not miss Pedara, amidst the old craters Zafferana Etnea and Linguaglossa. At the latter, you will find lovely examples of wood craft and the start of the road to the ski station Mareneve, at 1800 m. high, winding its way through the pinewoods.
Needless to say that the Etna also dominates quite a number of other old towns and villages, the one even more romantic than the other. Need we mention more than just a name, Taormina?
The hardship of fishermen’s life
When you visit Scopello, a small fisherman’s village in the province of Trapani, you might only see the gorgeous sandy beaches , but for those who, throughout the ages, had to earn their living from
casting their nets, the rocks just beneath those treacherously blue waters claimed many a fisherman’s life. Here, too, there are many towers used in the past to look out for enemy ships.
At about 7 km. along the coast, you arrive at the Zingaro Nature Reservation. The fish are caught just as so many ages ago, and although the tuna and the “aidunghe” suffer from over-fishing, it
is difficult for those who earn their living in this way not to fish without a compensation. As far as the flora is concerned; you will find a rich variety of pinetrees, olive trees, vineyards, pigmee palms, almond trees and John’s bread trees.
Primary colours and clean, cleaner, cleanest
The Eolan archipelago counts seven islands, with Stromboli as the most important. All the islands in the archipelago are the result of volcanic eruptions, which once took place beneath the surface of the sea. All these islands are of geological interest, on one of the faults between Europe and Africa. They have romantic bays and beaches and no pollution. Clean, cleaner, cleanest! The inhabitants are friendly and hospitable, not because of the money you might spend but because they just are.
Even the most jaded traveller feels at home. All colours are primary; the black of the earth, the blue of the sea, the white of the houses, all very intense. Most people consider Panarea as the most beautiful and it is a fact that this island has perhaps the most hidden little bays and caves and even a well-kept prehistoric village.
Candles on the staircase and top attractions
Caltagirone, once called the “Castle of the Caves”, is surrounded by three hills and well-known for its beautiful ceramic products. During the Arabic rule, balconies, walls and staircases got decorated with them. In the night of the 24th to the 25th of July, one celebrates the feast of the patron saint of the city and for this occasion, the monumental staircase is a sea of coloured, lighted candles, or tea-warmers in little coloured holders, like a mosaic, each year in a different design. The city has a lovely ceramic museum, to be reached via the so-called “teatrino”, a small theatre from the 18th century.
Pindaro, a Greek poet, described Agrigento as the most beautiful city ever created by man. It was founded in the 6th century B.C. by Greek colonists in order to guard and protect the valley of the temples. Not far from Agrigento lies the famous spa Sciacca, with its sulphur baths. One understands why the people from times gone by associated the smell with all kind of bad things.
Nowadays, the city is one of the top attractions of Sicily. More Greek cultural inheritance is to be found in Siracusa, on the South coast. Once, from about 600 till 300 B.C., this was the most important town of the Classic world, were e.g. the still famous scientist Archimedes lived.